Following on Multi-pitch Climbing: What to Bring

Nothing beats staring down into a void of empty space off the ground but you better be prepared for anything multi-pitch can throw at you because your momma can’t come save you! Here is a short list of things that you need to bring when you are following a leader whether it is trad or sport climbing.

One of Quebec’s long easies:  Voie de Rappel at Le Dome. Photo taken by Alex Potapov

Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous and anyone who tells you otherwise is a fool or a liar. Climbing has come a long way since hobnail boots and hemp ropes. If you are aware of the risks and have proper instruction, you can manage those risks. There are many ways to start learning to climb safely. Reading this blog is not it; this is not a substitute for professional training nor for common sense. 

Climbing Gear

Helmet: You should always have this on when at the crag but even more important when doing multi-pitch as you become even more exposed to risk.

Belay device: A tube style belay device preferably. Other types of devices can work but to save on weight, it’s your best bet. It might be a good idea to know how to rappel with something else in case you drop it.

Cordelette for a prusik: 40 cm of 6 - 7mm static cordelette (with a locking carabiner) to make a prusik or another friction hitch for rappelling (aka abseiling).

Personal anchor: You need something to connect you to the anchor. When trad climbing, people tend to use a 60cm sling to save on weight since it will be carried around for the climb anyway. An affordable option, would be to build a leach out of a 230 cm of ~9.8mm dynamic rope. This is useful for extending the rappel as well.

The picture below illustrates how to make a leash (aka person anchor). Tie one end to your harness with a figure eight knot through the tie-in-loops and another knot with a carabiner at the other end of the rope.

A leash made of 9.8mm dynamic rope

Nut tool: Only needed when trad climbing. Tie it to a piece of thin cordelette and clip it with a carabiner so your butter fingers don’t drop it.

Sling: A 120 - 240 cm sling is useful for building an anchor as you climb the multi-pitch route. Confirm with your partner what extra gear is needed for the team.

Locking carabiners: Four locking carabiners are always handy for abseiling without belay device. It’s always a good idea to carry some for unexpected needs.

Here is what I drag around including a 15L pack with a camelbak-style water container

Other essentials:

• A head lamp with extra batteries (a requirement on anything that will take several hours to climb) 
• Water (a requirement on anything that will take several hours to climb)
• Bug spray
• Sunscreen
• Snacks (check out our dirtbag’s guide for some ideas)
• Rain gear and/or extra layer
• A first aid kit with some pain killers
• Climbing tape (also useful for first aid)
• A bivy for an emergency shelter
  

Study the route your are going to do and talk with your partner. The bigger the route the more prepared you want to be! Definitely make sure as a team you have enough gear for anchors, enough draws, etc.

Beside dragging gear up the wall, there are many other considerations: how to communicate (knowing rope signals is useful when it’s windy), do you drag your shoes up with you to walk off or are you going to rappel down, what kind of ropes to bring (halves, twins, or a single rope), what do you do if someone gets injured and cannot continue climbing, et cetera. Enough said; now, get out there and climb to the heavens.

About the author: Greg Gibson has been climbing since 2010 and started MTL Climbing with Kushwant Bussawah to help bridge the gap for his friends trying out climbing and help share cool areas and trip stories. When he is not trying figure out how to get up a rock, he works a day job as an engineer.