Kush's Kamouraska Must-Dos

Great sight to walk up to
Kamouraska is located along the coast of the Gaspe Peninsula. The town is called St-Andre-de-Kamouraska and is about 4 hours away from montreal. You can find some great camping at the SEBKA, which is located a stumble away from the brewery La Tete d’Allumette. At the SEBKA, you can pick up your day ticket and parking and parking too. If you hold a pass at Montagne d’Argent, it’s valid here too. ;)
Disclaimer: Climbing is dangerous and anyone who tells you otherwise is a fool or a liar. Climbing has come a long way since hobnail boots and hemp ropes. If you are aware of the risks and have proper instruction, you can manage those risks. There are many ways to start learning to climb safely. Reading this blog is not it; this is not a substitute for professional training nor for common sense.


Approach
About 30min of mellow approach, even with a pack full of gear and water. Oh, yes, bring A LOT of water and hydrating snacks like apples and clementines. It gets hot very fast there.


The Climbing

One of a kind rock because it feels like the gym. Overhangy quartzite with pockets and jugs like you’ll find at your gym.Picture a gym route, now remove the colours; that’s what it looks like.


Classic to-dos
If you are a 5.10 climber, you’re in luck. Start your day off at Les Nouveaux Maries. A nice tricky 5.10a that looks easy but has a tricky end. If you feel pumped, try a lap on Les divorces, right next door. Same anchor ;). Ready? Move a little right and jump on Bonsai before anyone else ropes up on it.


Quick 10 min lap and you are ready for Cassonade. Rated 5.8 but easy as the approach to Kamou. Boulder your way past Le Nez (5.6) and you will get to where Kamou gets busier; Prestation Aerienne
Prestation Aerienne Area
Tintin au Tibet.
Overhangy, long(ish) technical route. There’s an easy way past the overhang, hence the 5.9+ but if you want the direct way, you will earn yourself a nice V5 move to get past the overhang.
It gets cold in the morning in Spring and Fall

Best lunch spot? If Tintin is in front of you, there’s a big rock right behind you and some trees. Scramble up and you have yourself a perfect lunch area. Take those instagram-worthy shots.


Moving on. We have next to Tintin, a 5.11a classic called Prestation Aerienne. Should you feel like burning up your day on it, i suggest you make it your day’s challenge. I guarantee you it’s worth it.


As de Pique area
Scramble a good 20min on some good V1 boulders. You’ll see a huge crowd staring at an imposing overhangy route. Welcome to Moby Dick. 5.11b. THE Kamou classic that everyone wants under their belt. I still don’t have it. I didn’t even attempt it. Too crowded.




I strongly suggest moving on to Attache Ta Tuque. Beautiful, highly exposed route. As the name says, hold on. The final moves are where everything is played out. Fight it. Clip that anchor and build that TR line for your friends. Take in the view.


Let’s talk about La Renversee (5.9). Gorgeous, tricky little 5.9 that is a one move wonder. Definitely a classic.




That’s your warmup for the next section. Less crowded, trickier section but definitely in the realm of the possible, the last part of Kamou within your abilities called Thrombose. 4 routes. Ranging from 5.6-5.10c. If you managed to send Attache, you’ll be fine here. There’s a section called la valse des legumes too that would be worth checking out if you have time.


Conclusion
The best part of climbing there, after the actual climbing, is the nice cold beer you earned. Go ahead, bring some home. Make sure to capture that sunset though.
Seriously, that sunset!
Notes:
*The anchors have rappel rings. So you can easily be lowered off after cleaning instead of rappelling down. Saves time!






About the author: Kushwant Bussawah has been climbing since 2011 and started MTL Climbing with Greg Gibson to share cool ideas and talk about climbing to people who want to try it out. If he’s not off to some mountain, he works a day job as an engineer to make money to buy gear.

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