Beginner Climbing Gear Guide Part 2: Belay Devices

This is the second part of a three part series about the what gear to get when you start rock climbing. In the first article, Kush covered climbing harnesses. This article is about that 'thingy' you use to control the amount of rope is out so your partner doesn't fall to their death: a belay device. There are many different types of belay devices out there. I will cover what the popular ones so that you are aware what you can get. Long story short, get an tube style belay first then consider moving to something fancier.

Disclaimer: climbing is dangerous and anyone who tells you otherwise is a fool or a liar. Climbing has come a long way since hobnail boots and hemp ropes. If you are aware of the risks and have proper instruction, you can manage those risks. There are many ways to start learning to climb safely. Reading this blog is not it; this is not a substitute for professional training nor for common sense. 

There are three popular types of belay devices:

1. Tube style devices
2. Passive assisted braking devices
3. Active assisted braking devices

The picture below shows (some) of my belay devices. The Lifeguard and Gri Gri 1 (left of the picture) are active assisted braking devices. The Master Pro Belay (middle right) is tube style belay device and the Smart Alpine (far right) is a passive assisted braking device.

Left to right: Mad Rock Lifeguard, Petzl GriGri 1, Grivel Master Pro, Mammut Smart Alpine

The first device you should get is an tube style belay device. It is good for rapelling as well as belaying. The down side, there is no assisted braking. That is you have to lock the rope down manually when your climber falls. It is a good idea to learn how to do this before progressing to another type of belay device. Whether the device has assisted braking or not, the belayer needs to be alert and in control of the ropes at all times.

If you think you will be trying multi-pitch climbing in the future, get an ATC with a guide loop right away.

ATC without a guide loop. A great device
for single pitch climbing. Paired here with
Black Diamond Gridlock

ATC with a guide loop (the top loop).
Good for single pitch and multi-pitch climbing

Be sure to check with your gym what devices they approve before purchasing one. Not all belay devices are allowed. Some of the notable ones are that are on the market are the following:

Black Diamond Big Air XP

• A basic starter package
• Not good for multi-pitch climbing

Givel Master Pro Belay

• One of the more affordable belay device with a guide loop
• This means it will be good for when you start multi-pitch climbing
• Pairs nicely with a Clepsydra Twin Gate carabiner (a little style never hurt)

Black Diamond ATC Guide

• Another belay device with guide loop but oriented differently which some people prefer
• Good for single-pitch and multi-pitch climbing

Once you are comfortable with an ATC then look at getting something fancier. Active assisted braking devices are great but they are not fool proof and they are more expensive. Passive assisted braking devices are the trickiest to use and are not recommended for beginners.

Hopefully, you have a better idea of what is available for belaying devices and have an idea of what harness you want. The next article in this series will conclude with an overview of what shoes to get.