Trip Report: Summer Climbing Trip in American North East
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| Nothing to see here just enjoying some breakfast |
In August, we had an epic road trip in the US of A: New Hampshire, Maine, then New York. We convinced ourselves that we could sleep in Kush’s Subaru Crosstrek, rented the last cargo box available at Rack Evasion and took off for a nine day adventure. Greg wanted to show Kush a sampling of some of the best trad out there and we wanted to go check out Acadia National Park.
Day 1 - 3: New Hampshire - Cathedral Ledge and White Horse Ledge
We started with a quick stop at Cathedral Ledge then set up camp down a forest road in the White Mountains National Park. Free camping with view like this?! Yes please. Just be prepared to fight a bear to get a site on the weekend. |
| Greg enjoying the stream by the campsite in the White Mountains National Park |
Also, fire safety much? Let’s just say Greg got a little anxious to get some steaks going that night.
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| An unorthodox way to warm one's feetie feets by the fire |
On day two, we did the Standard Route on White Horse ledge. It's not a route for a beginners as there are some long yet easy runouts. Greg had some bright idea on how to do the last pitch with two ropes tied together. It didn’t work out so well. Let's just say that on the last pitch, you are more than likely to solo or simul climb with little pro between you.
On the third day, we did some yoga and plyometrics, then drove to Maine for some lobster. With our bellies nice and full, we crashed in a Walmart parking lot. Yes, you are allowed to do that.
Day 4: Acadia National Park Otter Cliffs
Otter Cliffs has become what people picture when they think of climbing in Maine. The views of the sea line filled with lobster traps are astounding and it make for a fun drive around Desert Island.
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| View from Otter Cliffs. On the right is the Sea Stack area. |
For a Saturday morning, we were one of the two climbing parties that were leading any route. Everyone else was top-roping. Otter Cliff offers some short routes, no higher than 20 meters. Another popular attraction of the Otter Cliffs is the route called Peak Performance opened by the legendary Lynn Hill, which we unfortunately did not attempt.
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| Greg working a route in the Yellow Wall area |
Setting up top rope anchors in this area can be tricky though. Some require trad gear for anchors and almost all of them require a piece of tarp or low-friction material to protect the rope over the rough edges. Bring some long slings. In fact, always have those ready just in case.
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| Kush rappelling into the Great Chimney |
A memorable moment for Kush was climbing The Great Chimney. An older lady had tried to talk him out of leading it. Three tiny pros but good enough.
Day 5 - 6: A Taste of the South Wall AKA The Precipice Wall
We started the day with a nice and mellow climb through some bushes, brambles and lichen called The Ramp Traverse. We followed up with Balance Queen and finished with an area classic called The Story of O. The latter being a nice multi-pitch a fun to the high walls and a view of The Precipice. |
| View from The Story of O |
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| We can't recollect how we got up Recollections of Pacifica |
The day was concluded with a beer or three in Bar Harbor and an obligatory seafood meal. A nice spot for sure but a different vibe than Montreal. The bars shut down at one am here followed by tons of cops cruising around hunting for drunk drivers.
We chilled for a day in Bass Harbor which is a bit more peaceful because there are less tourists, only to go back to the South Wall for another beating.
Resisting the temptation to head straight to Poke-o or to eat more pie, we headed to Barn Rock. This was definitely the best ‘let loose’ day of the trip. After hanging out and both of us fully enjoying sleeping on real mattresses (WAY better than an inflatable mat after seven days), Greg was ready to be introduced to cliff jumping and we wanted try deep water soloing too.
We headed out for Barn Rock on Lake Champlain. We hiked for about an hour and a half to reach it. It would've taken us less time if we knew the way. Once we reached the top, the vast stretch of Lake Champlain was open to us under a cloudless sky. It was a perfect day for jumping into the unknown.
We even had an audience of local boaters wondering who were those two crazies climbing up a rock with no rope!
On the last day of our trip, we it ended with a mad dash to the Poke-o-Moonshine slabs. Sadly, we had to change plans when we realized we didn’t have enough time to send the multi-pitch route Catharsis before rain would roll in. Instead, we did some shorter routes recommended by locals: Puppies on Edge, Group Therapy and Varsity. All three were definitely fun from top to bottom.
We chilled for a day in Bass Harbor which is a bit more peaceful because there are less tourists, only to go back to the South Wall for another beating.
Day 7: The South Wall, Round 2
Round two at the South Wall and we got what we were looking for. Flew up the Standard Route and did a nice line on Return to Forever. Since we were right there, we tried to make it up on Scaramouche Arete only to get spit out after some attempts. Bolts are a luxury that we tend to enjoy little more after trad climbing regularly. We concluded the day with the ultra classic Chitlin's corner. |
| Top out of Chitlin's Corner |
"Chitlin's Corner, what a beautiful line! We made it up the first pitch only to get up close and personal with a thin crack in a left-facing corner. Small gear is eaten up by this crack so bring a lot. I stitched it up and wasted gas fighting my way up.
Like a ninja, Kush saved of the day! As I struggled to slot in a small nut I managed to drop the entire set and call out 'catch my nuts!!' (heyoo). This guy caught 'em and right then I took a fall which he managed to hold too!
I even managed to pull out a 0.1 cam on the fall. Hey, what can you do? At this point, I yanked on the gear I could and topped out! What a ride! Too bad we had no headlamps on us and it was getting dark so Kush had to bail halfway up the route." - Greg
Day 8 - 10: Barn Rock and Poke-o-Moonshine
The next day we found some wild blueberry pie in Maine and headed down to stay at a friend’s cottage in Willsboro, NY in order to be closer to Poke-o-Moonshine for a last climb before heading back to Montreal. |
| Wild blueberry pie and book. |
We headed out for Barn Rock on Lake Champlain. We hiked for about an hour and a half to reach it. It would've taken us less time if we knew the way. Once we reached the top, the vast stretch of Lake Champlain was open to us under a cloudless sky. It was a perfect day for jumping into the unknown.
Splash!
We even had an audience of local boaters wondering who were those two crazies climbing up a rock with no rope!
On the last day of our trip, we it ended with a mad dash to the Poke-o-Moonshine slabs. Sadly, we had to change plans when we realized we didn’t have enough time to send the multi-pitch route Catharsis before rain would roll in. Instead, we did some shorter routes recommended by locals: Puppies on Edge, Group Therapy and Varsity. All three were definitely fun from top to bottom.
Final Remarks
All in all, a fantastic summer trip! We definitely need to spend some more time exploring the deep water soloing potential near Lake Champlain. Next time we head to Maine, we absolutely have to hit up The Armadillo in Mt. Katahdin.
Your authors on the hanging belay at Chitlin's corner. Greg's nuts dropped after this.
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